Roland Mouret's Fall/Winter collection was packed to the brim with all things wonderful: cool sorbet hues, sophisticated peplum separates, and some of the most ingenious tailoring I have ever seen. I particularly enjoyed the mash-up of menswear-inspired, tailored outerwearand feminine, pastel shift dresses.Seeing this collection right before my eyes (from the third row!) during the Audi Fashion Festival might have left me a little biased, but this collection will forever resonate in my mind as proof that an array of simple pieces can really make an impact.
For an under-ten-minute long show, the collection ticked a LOT of boxes. From effortlessly simple shift dresses to fur-topped pastel hued outfits, every ensemble that was sent down the runway possessed something from the greater scope of things; at least one recurring element drawn from Mouret’s initial inspiration. In other words, there were no “filler” pieces just to pass the time; each ensemble was brutally conciseand adhered firmly to a set of motifs, fabrics, colors and tailoring styles to create a solid collection with a strong aesthetic identity. I’ve picked out a few of my favourite trends within this collection and collaged them below:
I love the interesting architectural quality of the crossover-neck.
Think of it as a scarf, I guess. With a bolder “twist.” (pun intended!)
Voluminous fur, meet sorbet hues and pastel peplum. Probably one of the most unexpected combinations in this collection, but definitely a favorite of mine. There’s actually nothing cuter than a peek of peplum or a flap-pocket underneath a huge ball of fur (that somehow manages to still look chic). Roland, I don’t know how you do it.
Another fabulous highlight of the collection – a succulent abundance of masculine tailoring in various forms: fitted, slouchy, or tweaked to look girly. The angularshoulders and no-fuss colors made ‘borrowing from the boys’ something we ladies should contemplate doing more often.
This is the part where the girls bring out their scissors, needle-and-thread and pastel colored dye; menswear is about to get a whole new look. Whoever thought muted, manly office-wear could be so intimately related with such gloriously girly confections? Along with his fantabulous team of seamstresses, Mouret has managed to whip up a plethora of different neckline designs for each ensemble. While the peplum dress on the extreme right boasts pleated puffy shoulders, the electric-white pantsuit next to it (center right) has a lovely loose fit but a wide, creased shoulder to raise the bar. The blue ensemble (centre left) possesses a delicately folded bust and shoulder, reminiscent of the elegant Japanese paper-folding art form: origami.
Another super-great thing (gosh, I could go on forever gushing about my love for this collection) about Mouret’s AW2012 line is that it sticks to an exclusive color palette, which is echoed and recreated through the whole collection in ways that really did make my jaw drop. Take that shapeless lemony frock paired with knee-high boots, for instance. Gorgeous color, light fabric, and the ruched shoulders and crinkled neckline are super feminine. Now, on the far right we have another ensemble featuring the stunning fluorescent hue. A restructured, slouchy take on the modern blazer, this unusually long piece of outerwear is equipped with lethally tailored broad shoulders, and a sharp pair of pants to match. And there you have it, a floaty, DVF-esque dressand a sleeveless, slouchy blazer-type-thing-which-still-qualifies-as-super-cool, both coated in the same, delicious color. Roland Mouret is definitely one to conjure up ingenious juxtapositions of his own designs (and present them within the same collection), which give every collection of his an authentic feel.
