NYFW SS14 | rodarte.

When asked to describe their impeccable Spring Summer 2014 Ready to Wear collection, the sisterly dream team Laura and Kate Mulleavy only had two words: Los Angeles. On first thought, perhaps that loose, vague "definition" strikes one as too brief or lacking precision. After viewing the collection, one realises that there really isn't a more succinct way to put it. Think Nasty Gal amped up thirteen notches, with provocative assymetrical hemlines, Cali-girl bra tops and the absolute best and boldest use of black and white this season has seen. Rodarte's darkly whimsical and unshakeable attention to artistic detail is given a facelift as the duo experiments with some of the most modern silhouettes their career has seen. Geometric clashes between spherical necklaces and grid-lined cropped sweaters add punch to an already bold statement, topped off with animal-print flat booties that nods to an existing albeit successful trend. Thick, metallic embellished belts hang loosely from slim waists, lending a slightly raunchy, "borrowed from the band-boys" look. And yet despite all the tassels and the vibrant prints and the surprisingly original silhouettes, some absolutely perfect classics can be witnessed; a simple white mink miniskirt and an equally pristine ivory blazer subtly interpose the loudness of Los Angeles.

If there was an award for how many different ways black and white could complement each other within the confines of each runway look, Rodarte would surely bag it. Mermaid-y assymmetrical hems flow organically beneath polished stripes, colorblocking, tiered texture, modern plaid, animal print, or a mix of all of the above. Triangular necklines become teardrops, which become pyramid-esque high necks which fall to drapey low v-necks. The combinations, and effortlessness with which they are exuded, are astounding. While I'm not a fan of the awkwardly sea-creature/lettuce resembling hems (I only said mermaid initially to be polite), the sharp precision of the patterns are executed without fault. With architectural design and print being this damn good, who even needs color?

 And now ring in the separates; namely the bustier which is naturally every Californian chica's dream. While the shape of these cropped pieces are inventive and refreshing, they lack wearability as the pointy cups distort the appearance of shoulders and thus make the rest of us who aren't model-thin look a tad wonky. Nevertheless, I am 100000% in favor of these no-nonsense pointy toed shoes. They're a little like Tavi Gevinson: they know they're weird and unconventional and a bit out-there, but they're proud of it and hold their heads high and werk it (I am still talking about shoes fyi). Points awarded for the 1st and 3rd bustiers for edgy sex appeal (from left to right), points deducted for that satiny nightdress worn by Lindsey Wixson that seems to be missing the rest of its sleeves and skirt (might be biased by the fact that Lindsey isn't my fave but oh well).

Noooooow we're talking. The fact that no one's thought of filling a skirt slit with sexy tassels before worries me, because that might just be the best new revolutionary fashion idea this season has graced us with so far. Teamed with a sultry mesh underlay, scorpion motifs and delicate earrings, that 1st look is ah-mazing. The lack of tottering stilettos helps round out this collection as one with athletic, casual potential and flexibility - the models aren't overly made-up in rainbow eyes a la Chanel, and the way they pull off beautiful clothing in simple, rather generic-looking shoes brings Rodarte's previously untouchable kingdom of elegance down to a sexy and accessible level.

As the show progressed, hemlines sneaked higher and higher into a final culmination of a marginally more sophisticated reworking of the traditional booty-exposing daisy duke short. Do they look amazing on the models? Definitely. Are the designs and embellishments with regards to these shorts successful? Sure. Do I like the fact that they're teamed with equally revealing bustiers? No. Are these at all wearable? Probably not. A style statement for sure - but one that is hard to translate into daily wear (unless you're Cara Delevigne, Liu Wen, or possess the legs and the swagger of a "model-off-duty"). Either way, I'm too caught up in those gorgeous blazers, which douse the collection in sexy, carefree masculinity. Few things are more effortlessly chic than soft blazers with pushed-up sleeves, but that sleeveless leopard and leather piece on the far right is a tiny notch above its sleeved counterparts. But blazers are delicious however they are consumed: sleeved, oversized, boxy, embellished, etc.

So there you have it! What do you think of Rodarte's Spring Summer 2014 collection?

NYFW SS14 | raoul.

Striking the most perfect balance between retro-glam and futuristic flavors, Raoul electrified NYFW with another absolutely flawless Spring Summer collection. Comprised of unusual geometry, glorious architecture and a lightness that makes me miss the warmer months even more, modern silhouettes are redone with even cleaner lines and infused with a coherent palette of vermillion orange, black, white, stony gray and pops of blue. Razor-thin ankle straps, pointy stiletto heels and laser cut oval details add precision and sharpness to the boxy androgynous silhouettes which distort the female form. Transparency is manipulated to great acclaim; be it through perforated fabric, angular mesh inserts or transparent detailing on footwear. Organic monochrome swirls help soften the several bold sartorial statements, yet still attribute structure and form to a collection that appears rigid, but upon closer inspection, reveals itself as a wearable revival of some of fashion's oldest concepts. On a beauty note, the cleanliness and sterility of the ensembles are reinforced with matte complexions, a nude lip, chalky eyeshadow, Twiggy-esque lower lashes and a defined sweep of liquid liner placed above the crease for a look that delicately walks the line between daily makeup wear and theatrical stage makeup. Sophistication fused with streetwear, history minus the ornate fuss, simple yet impactful detailing and absolutely no room for nonsense.

september's lovely links!

1. Thought Catalog: 25 Wise, Philosophical Quotes From Disney Movies.
Sometimes we are far too absorbed in abstract, convoluted fragments of "wisdom" from ancient generations to look closely enough at more recent figures of influence for snippets to live life by. Not that this is always a bad thing because it isn't, but there's a lot of wisdom in more modern culture if we seek it. The best example of a fairly recent inspiration I can think of is Walt Disney, who shaped a lot of our childhoods and taught us the building blocks of loyalty, love and life. I was so excited to have stumbled across this Thought Catalog article, as it combines two of my favorite things: quotes and Disney movies! Check the article out here.
(image credit)

2. Jimmy Kimmel Live: Lie Witness News - NYFW 2013
This is seriously the biggest laugh of the (fashion) season; while we fashion people try and dodge the stereotypes of being superficial, materialistic and unintelligent (not everyone in fashion has those characteristics okay!), this is a hysterical example of the exceptions to that statement. Watch flamboyantly dressed wannabes elaborate enthusiastically about designers who don't even exist, believe that a designer sent a male model donning watermelon headgear down the runway and hop around in excitement over this season's "uniboot." Click through for big fashion laughs!

 3. ZDNet: Four Privacy Settings You Should Enable in iOS7 Immediately
A helpful link for all the excited and not-so-excited (I fit into the latter category) iOS7 converts to maintain their privacy on the iPhone's new software. Four easy steps that'll take you hardly any time at all and will save you further fuss in the future! I'm still not a fan of the Google-esque knockoff appearance of iOS7 though. I'm resisting the switch until it's absolutely necessary!

4. Blogilates.com
If you haven't ever shamelessly rolled out a yoga mat in your bedroom and worked out with the absolute goddess of a ball of energy that is Cassey Ho, I don't know where you've been. This powerhouse of a woman will become your free-of-charge personal trainer and will motivate you to work hard, stay strong, eat clean and get that dream body (I love her to death and I haven't ever met her). She's charismatic and a whole lot of fun, and the best part is that everyone has access to her amazing expertise for free! So go ahead and watch her YouTube videos, cook up some of her Cheap Clean Eats in the kitchen, download her app and print out her workouts - I promise you won't regret it!

5. The Quiet Place
There isn't much that needs to be said about this website, other than the fact that it's probably the most worthwhile website that has ever captured my attention and time. Take some time out of your busy day to give this website a shot, and I promise it will be the most wonderful, refreshing experience. 

+ In case you guys haven't heard, seven inch stilettos has a new bi-monthly segment, humbly entitled "lovely links," which does just that: provides you with five interesting, thought provoking and often amusing articles, videos and images from around the web (not necessarily related to fashion). Read July's segment here and stay tuned for November's lovely links!

nicole miller SS14 | versailles rebel.

From dainty to daring and flapper to fantabulous, elegant and exuberant and sultry to shimmering, I'm tempted to write a 5th grade style acrostic poem as an attempt to list all the relevant adjectives that sum up one of the best, most wearable collections I have seen in a long time. Nicole Miller mightn't be a household name, but I know I'm not the only one completely enchanted by her cohesive collection of some of Spring's most timeless themes. While Miranda Priestley is (in)famous for sarcastically commenting on the groundbreaking nature of florals for spring, I'm far too taken with Miller's futuristic interpretations of fashion's most beloved "S/S" motifs to care about recycling trends that I actually really love. So what if designers do stripes and florals every Spring Summer season? There's a reason for such fond favorites to continuously reoccur - because we love them very very much. After all, the best way to reinvent your style for SS14 is to do it the Nicole Miller way: wear stripes, florals and tons of summery color all in one explosive, seamless ensemble. Here's to revisiting and reinventing favorites!

Some of the most stellar pieces in the collection made use of a simple black and white palette, spotlighting the intricate detail and workmanship of the pieces by toning down color. Geometry reigns supreme with a modern, glamorously fitted top and a pencil skirt with inverted color placement (centre left) - perfect for creating a sleek silhouette on any shape or size. A black leather crop is balanced out neatly with a flowy white knee-length skirt; another universally sensuous match made in monochrome heaven. Speaking of contrast, few things are more strikingly delicate than the white sheath skirt in the centre right image - statement making with a graceful, feminine touch has never been easier.

Deeper than turquoise, bluer than aqua yet still oddly green… I have no idea what that captivating color is but it's delicious and seems rather fit for the season. It's fresh but not adolescent, sophisticated minus the stiffness. It's an organic cross between stained-glass and the interior of a kaleidoscope, and the flecks of magenta and sky blue make this print utterly magnificent and easily translated onto a number of ensembles. I'm loving the shapely punctuation offered by the thick black panel stitching in the two dresses on the right; I wouldn't mind a strapless minidress in that print! While I'm not as much of a fan of the seemingly magnified print as seen on the top on the far left and skirt on the centre left, I'm so head over heels with that deep, luscious color that it hardly bothers me at all.

And now onto the outerwear, possibly the hardest aspect of a collection for designers to strike a balance between artistic, statement-making and wearable. Nicole Miller seems to have no issues with making her designs down-to-earth enough to be worn by actual human women (let's hope her price tags echo that strength!), and these jackets are testament to her "wearability is key" philosophy (she didn't actually say that quote, I just decided three seconds ago that her brand's philosophy should be wearability yep). A bit punk, a lot embellished, but slightly verging on too topshoppy, these are very cute. Very cute indeed.

True glamour always contains a concealed edge, and in Miller's world, this takes the form of beautiful stained-glass shards positioned in an angular, geometric explosion on various tops, skirts and dresses. Pristinely defined, perfectly contemporary and another universally flattering success, these ensembles help jagged color and classic silhouettes balance out beautifully. I'm totally in favor of the sporty, cut-in necklines (far right) and casual, cropped lengths which show a hint of midriff. If these pieces can't be worn to the office, out at night, to fashion week or anything in between, then what can?

 Fashionista.com describes this collection as being inspired by "the aftermath of a gang of rebel girls storming the castle," and it couldn't have been better put. This gloriously colorful, decadent juxtaposition of grunge-chic rebels and elegant femininity culminate dramatically in the seven looks above. By infusing bold monochrome stripes with watercolor florals, throwing a raw white leather vest over a fitted power dress and punctuating a striped pencil skirt with bursts of blooms, the result is no less than pinstripe perfection with a springtime-appropriate dose of bright florals. Top marks for reinvention, wearability and sex appeal.

 Towards the end of the show, a shift in focus to a less "teenage rebel" and more "refined princess" look can be noted through the evolution of colorful florals to gold baroque embellishments and modern white base hues to sheer pearl ones. Black becomes increasingly dominant as necklines reach a sexy, all time low in deep Vs decorated with ornate gold detailing. Tasseled jewelry becomes a permanent fixture, adding an ornate finish to pared-down, floor sweeping gowns with a sexy, linear finish. Nicole Miller's astounding ability to manipulate simple lines of color and fabric to construct the aesthetic framework of her pieces continues to boast success throughout the collection, adding dimension and shape to her expertly crafted pieces. Sequined floral motifs epically clash with baby pink twirly skirts, decadent glimmering accents glint with movement and bold, cloudy prints add lustrous mystique. Perfection.

So, what do you think of Nicole Miller's gorgeous Spring/Summer 2014 collection?

nyfw fall 2013 rtw | rodarte.

 During this digital age of lightning speed, contemporary design techniques and an ever-present futuristic focus, a funky dose of DIY is always thoroughly appreciated and welcomed with open arms. Season after season, the Mulleavy sisters have continued to impress, enthrall and excite the fashion world with their effortless skill and other-wordly design aesthetic. Drawing inspiration from their childhood home of Santa Cruz, the collection features more of an interpreted insight into their memories as opposed to a literal derivation of Santa Cruz style. As said by Nicole Phelps, "the clothes are more a product of the Mulleavys' imaginations and their fond memories of their younger days than anything you'll see walking around the California beach town."

 Believe me, I tried, and it was really really hard to spot a flaw in this collection. It set the tone and nailed the expectations of what every fall/winter ready-to-wear presentation should include. There was an appropriate sense of sophistication woven through the show from start to finish; even the blooming ruffles and cream-colored satin felt more 'grunge-princess' than 'innocent flower child' (a la spring/summer). In true DIY style there was a wonderful excess of fabric in many of the looks, yet not a single ensemble struck me as overdone, crowded or "drowning" the model in unnecessary swathes of cloth. As shown in the extreme left image above, more voluminous pieces were cleverly balanced out by mannish, curt accents such as blazers and tailored shoulders. The clean duochrome footwear probably marked the peak of modernity in this show, but managed to successfully blend in thanks to the inclusion of the cutest floral-patterned ankle socks ever. 

 As the collection progressed, experimentation with color and contrast took flight in the form of these showstopping gowns ("kaleidoscope" doesn't sound like such a hyperbole anymore!). It's more than just a 'slight risk' when you implement primary colors, awkward nude leggings and a medley of gemstones onto a native-looking smock top (second from right), and it's no easy feat to stick a tailored "cap" on a flowy gown either (second from left), but Rodarte has clearly done some successful risk-evaluation and nailed both uncanny looks. My favorite has to be the translucent floral sheath pictured in the extreme-left and the centre look - what a great way to add a dash of seductiveness! Also, tie-dye has never looked this hot.

 Mottled? Dappled? Stone-washed? An artistic interpretation of a cloudy day? I'm not too sure how to accurately address this print, but I'm in love with it. It's stunning versatility and high "style success rate" is encompassed in the pictures above - be it flowy skirts, sensual knotted dresses or v-neck frocks, I want me some mysterious cloud-printed ANYTHING in my wardrobe, pronto.

 

 Black has to be the Mulleavy sisters' go-to color, because it embodies and enhances everything the brand stands for: versatility, theatrics, artistic clothing and stylistic techniques. Sure enough, the sisters did this season's black with their usual effortlessness. Sexy black leotards, plenty of slouch, heavy leathery fabrics and cloaks makes "black on black on black on black" endlessly appealing The metallic accessories were amongst the few aspects of this collection that were placed with the intention to match and blend in.

Rodarte has always struck me as a beautiful explosion of intertwined cultural references, unexpected combinations and ornate expressions of a truly artistic vision.

 

What did you think of Rodarte's Fall 2013 RTW collection?