nicole miller SS14 | versailles rebel.

From dainty to daring and flapper to fantabulous, elegant and exuberant and sultry to shimmering, I'm tempted to write a 5th grade style acrostic poem as an attempt to list all the relevant adjectives that sum up one of the best, most wearable collections I have seen in a long time. Nicole Miller mightn't be a household name, but I know I'm not the only one completely enchanted by her cohesive collection of some of Spring's most timeless themes. While Miranda Priestley is (in)famous for sarcastically commenting on the groundbreaking nature of florals for spring, I'm far too taken with Miller's futuristic interpretations of fashion's most beloved "S/S" motifs to care about recycling trends that I actually really love. So what if designers do stripes and florals every Spring Summer season? There's a reason for such fond favorites to continuously reoccur - because we love them very very much. After all, the best way to reinvent your style for SS14 is to do it the Nicole Miller way: wear stripes, florals and tons of summery color all in one explosive, seamless ensemble. Here's to revisiting and reinventing favorites!

Some of the most stellar pieces in the collection made use of a simple black and white palette, spotlighting the intricate detail and workmanship of the pieces by toning down color. Geometry reigns supreme with a modern, glamorously fitted top and a pencil skirt with inverted color placement (centre left) - perfect for creating a sleek silhouette on any shape or size. A black leather crop is balanced out neatly with a flowy white knee-length skirt; another universally sensuous match made in monochrome heaven. Speaking of contrast, few things are more strikingly delicate than the white sheath skirt in the centre right image - statement making with a graceful, feminine touch has never been easier.

Deeper than turquoise, bluer than aqua yet still oddly green… I have no idea what that captivating color is but it's delicious and seems rather fit for the season. It's fresh but not adolescent, sophisticated minus the stiffness. It's an organic cross between stained-glass and the interior of a kaleidoscope, and the flecks of magenta and sky blue make this print utterly magnificent and easily translated onto a number of ensembles. I'm loving the shapely punctuation offered by the thick black panel stitching in the two dresses on the right; I wouldn't mind a strapless minidress in that print! While I'm not as much of a fan of the seemingly magnified print as seen on the top on the far left and skirt on the centre left, I'm so head over heels with that deep, luscious color that it hardly bothers me at all.

And now onto the outerwear, possibly the hardest aspect of a collection for designers to strike a balance between artistic, statement-making and wearable. Nicole Miller seems to have no issues with making her designs down-to-earth enough to be worn by actual human women (let's hope her price tags echo that strength!), and these jackets are testament to her "wearability is key" philosophy (she didn't actually say that quote, I just decided three seconds ago that her brand's philosophy should be wearability yep). A bit punk, a lot embellished, but slightly verging on too topshoppy, these are very cute. Very cute indeed.

True glamour always contains a concealed edge, and in Miller's world, this takes the form of beautiful stained-glass shards positioned in an angular, geometric explosion on various tops, skirts and dresses. Pristinely defined, perfectly contemporary and another universally flattering success, these ensembles help jagged color and classic silhouettes balance out beautifully. I'm totally in favor of the sporty, cut-in necklines (far right) and casual, cropped lengths which show a hint of midriff. If these pieces can't be worn to the office, out at night, to fashion week or anything in between, then what can?

 Fashionista.com describes this collection as being inspired by "the aftermath of a gang of rebel girls storming the castle," and it couldn't have been better put. This gloriously colorful, decadent juxtaposition of grunge-chic rebels and elegant femininity culminate dramatically in the seven looks above. By infusing bold monochrome stripes with watercolor florals, throwing a raw white leather vest over a fitted power dress and punctuating a striped pencil skirt with bursts of blooms, the result is no less than pinstripe perfection with a springtime-appropriate dose of bright florals. Top marks for reinvention, wearability and sex appeal.

 Towards the end of the show, a shift in focus to a less "teenage rebel" and more "refined princess" look can be noted through the evolution of colorful florals to gold baroque embellishments and modern white base hues to sheer pearl ones. Black becomes increasingly dominant as necklines reach a sexy, all time low in deep Vs decorated with ornate gold detailing. Tasseled jewelry becomes a permanent fixture, adding an ornate finish to pared-down, floor sweeping gowns with a sexy, linear finish. Nicole Miller's astounding ability to manipulate simple lines of color and fabric to construct the aesthetic framework of her pieces continues to boast success throughout the collection, adding dimension and shape to her expertly crafted pieces. Sequined floral motifs epically clash with baby pink twirly skirts, decadent glimmering accents glint with movement and bold, cloudy prints add lustrous mystique. Perfection.

So, what do you think of Nicole Miller's gorgeous Spring/Summer 2014 collection?

nyfw fall 2013 rtw | rodarte.

 During this digital age of lightning speed, contemporary design techniques and an ever-present futuristic focus, a funky dose of DIY is always thoroughly appreciated and welcomed with open arms. Season after season, the Mulleavy sisters have continued to impress, enthrall and excite the fashion world with their effortless skill and other-wordly design aesthetic. Drawing inspiration from their childhood home of Santa Cruz, the collection features more of an interpreted insight into their memories as opposed to a literal derivation of Santa Cruz style. As said by Nicole Phelps, "the clothes are more a product of the Mulleavys' imaginations and their fond memories of their younger days than anything you'll see walking around the California beach town."

 Believe me, I tried, and it was really really hard to spot a flaw in this collection. It set the tone and nailed the expectations of what every fall/winter ready-to-wear presentation should include. There was an appropriate sense of sophistication woven through the show from start to finish; even the blooming ruffles and cream-colored satin felt more 'grunge-princess' than 'innocent flower child' (a la spring/summer). In true DIY style there was a wonderful excess of fabric in many of the looks, yet not a single ensemble struck me as overdone, crowded or "drowning" the model in unnecessary swathes of cloth. As shown in the extreme left image above, more voluminous pieces were cleverly balanced out by mannish, curt accents such as blazers and tailored shoulders. The clean duochrome footwear probably marked the peak of modernity in this show, but managed to successfully blend in thanks to the inclusion of the cutest floral-patterned ankle socks ever. 

 As the collection progressed, experimentation with color and contrast took flight in the form of these showstopping gowns ("kaleidoscope" doesn't sound like such a hyperbole anymore!). It's more than just a 'slight risk' when you implement primary colors, awkward nude leggings and a medley of gemstones onto a native-looking smock top (second from right), and it's no easy feat to stick a tailored "cap" on a flowy gown either (second from left), but Rodarte has clearly done some successful risk-evaluation and nailed both uncanny looks. My favorite has to be the translucent floral sheath pictured in the extreme-left and the centre look - what a great way to add a dash of seductiveness! Also, tie-dye has never looked this hot.

 Mottled? Dappled? Stone-washed? An artistic interpretation of a cloudy day? I'm not too sure how to accurately address this print, but I'm in love with it. It's stunning versatility and high "style success rate" is encompassed in the pictures above - be it flowy skirts, sensual knotted dresses or v-neck frocks, I want me some mysterious cloud-printed ANYTHING in my wardrobe, pronto.

 

 Black has to be the Mulleavy sisters' go-to color, because it embodies and enhances everything the brand stands for: versatility, theatrics, artistic clothing and stylistic techniques. Sure enough, the sisters did this season's black with their usual effortlessness. Sexy black leotards, plenty of slouch, heavy leathery fabrics and cloaks makes "black on black on black on black" endlessly appealing The metallic accessories were amongst the few aspects of this collection that were placed with the intention to match and blend in.

Rodarte has always struck me as a beautiful explosion of intertwined cultural references, unexpected combinations and ornate expressions of a truly artistic vision.

 

What did you think of Rodarte's Fall 2013 RTW collection?

fide #1 - silvian imberg & anne fontaine.

Silvian Imberg's substantial presentation was everything a swimwear collection should be; luxurious, exuberant and sexy. From sheer poolside kaftans to bikinis accentuated with frills, tassels and the like, Imberg showcased a medley of looks that communicated one essential message that is often forgotten in the low-cal hype of the industry; every woman, regardless of their body shape, has the potential to be absolutely beautiful. Seeing smiley models donning Imberg's exotic creations was a touching change from the sullen, rail-thin skeletons that dominate runways worldwide. There was a prevalent geometric emphasis, which was continually reincarnated and reinvented as the show progressed. Watercolor pieces were accentuated with metallic rings, futuristic monochrome bikinis were held together by weaves of fabric, and the magnificent flowing kaftans brought the runway to life with it's bold hues and recurring patterns. The only piece of criticism I had for this show was the lack of cohesion in the pieces. Although I appreciated the long show (talk about value for money!), seeing so many polar opposites depicted on the runway suggested that the inspiration for the designs was blurry and lacked solidarity. Innovation, glamor and sex appeal? Definitely. But a concrete aesthetic and a defined source of inspiration? Not so much.

Anne Fontaine

Anne Fontaine: the curator of chic, the queen of quintessential French design, the master of monochrome, and so much more. It's not often a designer can pull off a collection fashioned entirely from grayscale, yet Fontaine seems to have accomplished this feat with startling ease and immense delicateness. By infusing refined, McQueen-inspired accents of a theatrical nature (see the cloud-like shoulder puffs in the image above) into her otherwise simplistic designs, Fontaine was able to bring what is often perceived as office-only fashion to a refreshing new level. Black blouses were doused with texture, volume and effective tailoring, and white pieces became not-so-angelic as transparent fabrics were introduced. Standouts from this ready-to-wear collection have got to be the strapless black dress with a ruched skirt and gold detailing, as well as the beautifully simple white dress (which I got an action shot of in the first picture!).

Apologies for the great delay, but there are more Fide Fashion Week posts to come, and that's a promise!

+ Check out Singapore blogshop Melrose Medley's newest collection here! [sponsored link]

elie saab.

 Whenever I read that name on a page of a glossy magazine, delightful images of sumptuous fabrics and princessy dresses whirl through my head. Elie Saab's designs are the definition of class, elegance and timeless style, and his silhouettes are strictly feminine and complement the feminine figure effortlessly. His Spring 2011 RTW collection consisted of 56 delicious ensembles - it was so difficult to pick my favorites to post on here!

His collection definitely proved to be a success, no different from every single one of his previous shows. The variety within the collection was truly breathtaking, consisting of clean cut blazers, micro dress shorts, voluptuous chiffon dresses and slinky silk cocktail togas. Elie's work is always full of intricate, microscopic detail, and this collection was no exception.